Antigua, Revisited

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From: Dave Peoples
To: Dave
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2012 7:48 AM
Subject: Antigua Revisited April 15-April 27th

Antigua Revisited April 15-28th

It’s the second time around for us with Antigua.  As the date reflects we found we needed to file taxes and that required internet.  So we dropped anchor in Falmouth and stayed aboard for two days as we downloaded numbers and roughed out our tax forms.

 

In the meantime we kept hearing about the Antigua Classic Yachts Week Races that were starting soon.

 

They have what are known as “Red Hat” parties.  Mount Gay Rum sponsors them and for the price of  3 very heavy rum drinks you acquire a coupon for a classic red hat.  We earned 2 coupons the first night, one the next night which we traded for a t-shirt, and tonight scored two more coupons, however it is only one hat per person.  What they didn’t tell us up front about Classic Race Week is that every night there is FREE drinks, Free food, Free music and free parties…and so many of your cruiser friends to met and talk with that by the fourth or fifth night you are begging for a night of rest. The good news is our livers survived the abuse, and so did we.  Every night we are up pass 11 PM or midnight, but then we do get to sleep in until 9 AM.

Jo and Jack, on Bodacious, gave us the thrill of a lifetime!  One day they took a group of us out on their Krogen and we followed the race circuit with the racing yachts flying by us.  Some of the boats were 30 feet working boats, while others were world renowned racers and over 200 feet in length. How majestic they all looked, and the seamanship to shift sails, change sails, and stay aboard a boat with no lifelines while slanted at 25 degrees or more is an accomplishment only some can claim.  Dennis Conner was at the helm when our friend Tish was rounding a corner just ahead of him.  Tish held his course and Conner had to yield the advantage—not everyone gets that opportunity.  P.S.  Tish was so focused on the course he never realized who was coming up on him.  Dave could have crewed but chose to watch.  Our friend Tish, from Miclo III , and Hakan, from Unicorn, did race and hearing their stories at the end of each day made it up close and personal.  The Red Hats they earned look SO GOOD on them.

The best way to describe each night is it felt like we were at the best high school graduation party but it never ended.  There was time to talk and hang with friends that we had just past in a port or met on another boat.  Having 10 days together really helped you get to know each other on a deeper level, and having a land base supplying food and drink meant I haven’t done dishes in over a week!  We celebrated Mark's birthday,  had a ladies luncheon, had many dinners with friends on boats and on land, attended parties on the lawn with music going on through the night, and drank a soothing lemongrass, ginger lime rum drink called D'fever at Hamilton's. 

Walking the docks, seeing up close the boats designed to race, meeting the crews, captains, and owners in a leveled playing field was also a source of another great story or two.  Sunday was the Parade of boats and we dined at a waterfront restaurant which gave us front row seats of the festivities.  Both camera died from the amount of pictures we took.  Last night was another Red Hat party and we have more tickets to claim booty from Mount Gay Rum, the Red Hat distribution party is tonight. We will have to share that event with y’all later.

We had intended to stay here till April 17^th but the romance of the race, the activities every day and night, the opportunity to be part of Classic Race Week just sucked us in and we are so glad we stayed.  However, it means that we will more or less need to draw a bee line for Trinidad and prepare the boat for hurricane season storage.  We have our son’s wedding in Texas on June 3^rd, and what a happy event that will be for us all.

SORRY, no pictures till we get back to the states.  But I promise they are worth looking at once were pare down from the 900+ we have taken in the past 2 months.

P.S.  Good rum causes NO HANGOVERS and we can testify to that after 8 straight nights of it, however it does cloud your resolve to move on to the next destination!

A Serving of Help and Kindness, Please

Roy’s Bayside Grill was serving more than great ribs this past Easter Sunday.  They served a series of generous slices of island hearts for one very sick little girl.
Our active granddaughter, Kiwi, had spent the afternoon working up a sweat swimmin in the surf, swaying and foot tapping to the jazz at Johnno’s and then faded into her grandpa’s lap.  She felt warm and took a nap.  We decided to walk down to Roy’s for a late afternoon appetizer, and found only the bar was open.  So ordering a beer we laid her down on a cushion and watched the local boats enjoying the breeze to practice for the Easter Monday Regatta. 
When we picked Kiwi up she was hotter than the ribs fresh off the grill, it burnt just touching her skin.  Grandpa walked up to the lady behind the bar and asked where was the closest hospital and what was our best option to get there because our little one had a high fever.  With not much hesitation she went over to one of customers.  Keith immediately embraced the situation and had us in his car in less than 3 minutes.  With his cell phone in one hand and the steering wheel in the other, he called the doctor he felt would best meet our needs as he drove us all to the hospital in the Valley.  Once at the hospital he smoothly helped us get checked in  and continued to call his doctor of choice.  Keith felt two plans were better than one as a wait in the hospital may be long.  Twenty minutes later the doctor called Keith back, he was across island with his son at another event.  With Keith’s words, and a short conversation with our daughter, he was in his car headed our way.  Dr Nicholas Carbon pulled up, pulled out his pediatric size equipment and gave our granddaughter a thorough exam. She was running a temperature of 103.2 F and had a throat infection.  He prescribed  antibiotics and since all the pharmacies were closed gave us the medication.  Keith drove us back to Roy‘s, called his relatives to tell them where they would find the dishes he had prepared for Easter dinner, and told them he would be there shortly.  On the drive back we learned his own son had died as a  toddler  due to a brain tumor, and how being able to help us was important to him. Once back at Roy’s he even offered us a room in his house for the night so we would  be nearby if help was needed.  We thanked him and took his phone number and arranged to meet the next morning at Roy’s.
As the morning sunlight rose, Kiwi’s fever  finally broke.  We prepared “Care Packages” for Keith and the doctor and headed the dinghy to Sandy Ground.  We walked the beach towards Roy’s Grill with hearts full of thanks for the kind people of Anguilla who stepped away from their holiday plans to offer aid and assistance to strangers.  Keith greeted us with hugs, told us we now belonged to the island, and always had a place to stay as well as offering to take us fishing. 
There on the beach were the Anguilla boats raising their sails to begin the Easter Monday Anguilla Regatta, and there was our granddaughter blowing kisses of luck to the sailors and saying, “Bye, bye boats.”

Jammin on Anguilla

April 6-April 11 Easter and Jammin’ in Anguilla
We set anchor in Sandy Ground, Anguilla on Friday afternoon, met the friendly Custom ladies, and headed down the beach for cold beer.  We walked to Sammy’s and found music, great t-shirts and shared a table with a couple from England.  Wanting to get a  sampler’s plate of the ambience we left after one beer and headed down to Elvis’s but we were too early for their Happy Hour .  Having walked as far as the beach stretched, we turned around and walked the full length down the other way to Roy’s Grill.  Kiwi rode on Dave’s shoulders.  There was a great crowd of locals, a closed kitchen, but a few open bar seats. 
Another beer or two later we packed up and headed slooooowly back to the boat.  With a two year old a walk on the beach is a lesson in patience.  Birds to chase, planes to wave bye bye to and watch disappear from sight, seashells to collect, chickens to chase and mimic, sand to squeeze into sand balls and throw at the advancing and retreating waves, a game of chase and hide toes from the same waves, watching other children playing in the surf and trying out what the 5 to 12 year olds are brave enough to do without thought or caution.  We had forgotten what goes on in a 2 year old mind, and the three of us wished we could have planned ahead and packed a 6 pack for the walk back to the dinghy.  Over an hour later we packed the stroller, bags, and granddaughter (who was now head to tow sand dune) into the dinghy.  How well we all slept that night!
Saturday was a sleepy, lazy day with a walk, and many talks with the locals, as we wandered the beach front and the road front of Sandy Ground.  Once again we ended up down at Roy’s and met a couple from Florida who had been coming here for over 20 years.  Still trying the sampler’s plate of atmosphere we found ourselves at the Pumphouse for an early dinner and were treated to an intro of the music being featured that night.  Backing up to the lagoon, we enjoyed the rustic décor, the pirate theme, and t-shirts with pirate mosquitoes downing their Rum blood punch, and sprayed the free bug spray all over our bodies.
Sunday started slower than Saturday with no one rolling out of bed early and the Easter Egg hunt was delayed until before noon.  Music started at Johnno’s and the Jammin’ crew went in to listen to the jam session.
Of course Kiwi had to run in the waves, and do what the other kids were doing.  She is fearless in the surf and sputters when she finds water has entered her mouth.  With a swipe to get the damp hair off her face, she stands and runs back in over and over again.  The music was great, and we all let the good vibes in and the sounds roll through our bodies till we were all swaying like palm fronds in the wind.  Little did we realize all the calm of the afternoon could be blow out of us in less than two hours.

March 26, 2012 Bunnies on Jammin

March 26- April 6, 2012  Bunnies on Jammin’

Thanks are in order to our daughter , Kelsey, who brought her daughter, Kiele(alias Kiwi), down to visit our boat for the past three weeks.  Having an almost two year old on the boat has aided our “get in shape” plan.  We also had a doctor- to -be on board for a week.  Lacey was a joy, and such a easy guest, but best of all for Dave was he had a dive partner and was able to get two dives in while she was here.    Dave has clearly been outnumbered with 4 females on board, but Captain status has kept a balance in many decisions. 
After picking the girls up from the airport, we took them to Barnacles for Happy Hour and food.  The next morning was the bakery with a dock for French pastries and a walk around town.  With the girls we circled St Martin, took in the Grand Case Tuesday night carnival like street party celebration, went to St Bart’s for hamburgers and to walk on Shell Beach.  Then we hopped over and visited the shops and bars of Philipburg. We ended Lacey’s vacation in Phillipsburg, Sint Maarten with farewell drinks and good bye hugs.
Kelsey and Kiwi stayed on and we went  around the island again spending time in Tinntemarre and then Marigot on the French side of the island.  While Kelsey worked we played with Kiwi who loved water.  So we dumped water with a small cup from a tub back into the ocean.  Then she learned to swish clothes in soap bubbles, squeeze water out, and  helped grandma hang clothes to dry.  She also enjoyed reading with grandpa, painting with water colors, and playing hide and seek.  Her version is to cover her head with something and then call out, “Kiwi, Kiwi, Kiwi” each time a bit louder till she pops out and laughs when you say, “There she is”.  One night when the stars were just up Kiele pointed to a bright orb and said, “Kiwi’s star”.  Dave then asked her , “Where’s momma star?”  Kiwi pointed to Pleiades, “Right there.”  So Dave asked, “Where is Opa’s star?“ and she pointed to another group.  When asked where Oma star was she replied, “Not yet”.  We were amazed because she had never studied the night sky with any of us and we didn’t know she even knew what stars were.  Every clear night after this she pointed to all the right places for each of our stars.
Then as Easter approached a decision had to be made.  Should we spend Easter  in St. Bart’s or Anguilla?  In Anguilla there are beaches and there is a Sunday  jamming session that Colin, from 12 Meters, highly recommends and is world famous.  So far there are three votes for Anguilla and one for St. Bart’s…

Tucked Away in St. Bart's

While tucked safely away from the steep waves and high winds on the seas, we are enjoying daytime adventures and boat reunions here in St Barth's.
During the days we have walked ALL the beaches, hiked the mountainous path between two towns, eaten conch and mahi mahi at a beachtown bistro, eaten hamburgers at Le Select (alias Cheeseburgers in Paradise), eaten at a waterfront resort restaurant while surfers caught some amazing curls, collected small shells on Shell Beach, taken 4 wheelers and driven all the roads on this small island-- with stops at bars for liquid re-hydration, snorkeled with a turtle and soaked in the sea, read 7 more books, and watched for 10 days a life size pair of Ken and Barbie doll tourists turn their bodies from pale white to a full 360 degree tan. While we saw and experienced this great island they spent their day always standing on the end of the beach for 6-8 hours getting a full body tan. It was incredible how long they stood facing the water and posing so sun touched every part of their bodies. We have never seen such dedication and waste of time all in the same action. Really people, get a life and buy a tanning bed if it is that important to be all around tan! You paid to come here and missed the daytime life here on St Bart's.

Now, on to the night time social life...We arrived with a buddy boat, Windfall (owned by a Swedish couple that we had met in Antigua), and then hosted a reunion on our boat with Mystic Moon who had arrived a few hours after us. What fun to share new friends with old sailing buddies! The following night we were Mystic Moon's guest for wahoo, lobster bisque...Cathy outdid herself once again! I think Don Julio was involved with wine, tequila,and rum as well. Our next celebration was on Windfall. Lena treated us to a great dinner and after dinner Per performed on an acoustic cello, his first after a four month break--he has been playing since the age of 10. With the help of an amplifier, his music filled the anchorage and gave the stars a proper compliment. The pieces were moving but the look on Per's face was the best gift. The next boat event was an afternoon/evening of exchanging info. Mystic Moon told Windfall and us about ports and things north of here, and then we all shared with MM things to do south of here. After the exchange we had popcorn and a movie on Mystic Moon, followed by cake and red wine. The movie was August Rush, what a great film that was to watch! Having come full circle we had a parting ways dinner on our boat--Jammin' Pizza night. Goodbye are never easy, but we are sure we will catch up with Mystic Moon in late April, and Per and Lena we may meet in Sweden or on the East coast before that.
We were anchored in a spot that holds 20 or so boats, so we were surprise when we found ourselves being hailed by another boating couple we know. John and Gilly, from Destiny and the BajaHaHa 2007, were here visiting on Petite Profligate. They dropped anchor, checked out their neighbors and when they saw who their neighbor was, they hollered up a big "Hello." We have not seen them since 2008 when we all were still in Mexico. So, just last night we spent the evening with them and their friend Susan, catching up and swapping stories that helped to make us who we are. This afternoon when we said goodbye to John, Gilly, and Susan I decided we cruisers really need to coin the proper parting term, and it is not "Goodbye." Because, chances are very good that we will run into each other again, if not in this sea perhaps another...So the proper parting term may be "Until our rudders again brush the same waters, here is a hug to hold close to your hearts." That would pretty much sum it all up don't you think?
Well, we will be off to St Martin, maybe tomorrow or maybe we will stay out here on this little island beside St Bart's for a few more days and see who the wind may blow in that we know...it's certainly is a cruiser's life for now.

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Antigua Feb 14- March 1st

Antigua is the first island we have seen all 360 degrees around. We started our circle in English Harbour and found it to be full of boats and room for no more. Just around the corner we found Falmouth Harbour where we dropped anchor. Together with Ted and Joan, from Panchita, we checked out Lord Nelson's Boatyard where one can check in to the country. Aged mortar held rocks in place and combined with weathered bricks and timbers to make a solid wall on our left side, while to our right the well maintained trees offered us shade and a perch for song birds. The overall effect was as clear as a painted picture of days long past but not forgotten. Many of the working buildings of the boatyard have been maintained and currently house modern day services to the yachting community. We found the sail loft to be very helpful in supplying us some needed material to repair our sail cover, and the assortment of restaurants were very tempting. However, after so many days of boat time and few opportunities to exercise, we decided to walk further and burn calories before adding new one to our bodies.

We walked away from the Nelson Boatyard and out into the business area of Falmouth. At the taxi stand we talked with some locals who suggested we walk up the back street to the Caribbean Taste Native Restaurant where we had a very tasty Valentine's Day lunch--no beer available but you can buy it down on the main street and bring it up with you...such accommodating people. Our next stop was the shops along the main drag. We walked into a photography shop and drooled over some of the best photos we have seen that truly invoke the emotional response we get when looking out to the sea. Over the next few days we experienced the Mad Mongoose for Happy Hour and internet, Bailey's store for anything we needed, watched the awards for the Hare and Tortoise Swim Events, ate at Life--great pita sandwiches, saw a Tott Club round of rum event, and visited with other boaters like Anna and Hakan, from the Swedish boat Unicorn, who had helped us see and experience so much of Martinique. Weather was going to keep us bound to the island for at lest a week which prompted us to pull anchor and move on to the next anchorage.

Heading to the west we cruised past Carlisle Bay, between two reefs, around Johnson Point, pass Morris Bay, passed Jolly Harbour, and set the anchor down in the back of Five Islands Harbour in 10-12 feet of water. Here we had the bay all to ourselves, with Panchita, and our own private beach to comb. There is a small island near the back and the trees are full of at least three different kinds of nesting birds. During the daytrip we noticed a gentle blend of cacti with palm trees-dry and lush existing together. What a calm piece of water, and a great night of sleep we had there after our final farewell dinner with Panchita.
The next day we were off and headed north and east. We passed by Deep Bay, St John's (which we intended to do by land later), Dickenson's Bay, ducked in to Parham Bay and decided we wanted more rustic scenery and space, and landed out at Great Bird Island. Here we found a small beach, paths to walk, rock islands to explorer, and photographic opportunities along with rock and roll music coming from a partying catamaran. There were two families teaching their kids what a sailing vacation can be. One dad took five kids on an adventure and said, "Water is short, you get one gulp, and only one gulp so save it for when you are hallucinating and about to past out. Now pile into the dinghy and paddle to Hell's Gate where we will search for treasures beyond your imagination." They returned two hours later and the dads got a break. The moms put on music and led the mighty troops into dancing on the deck, bouncing on the trampoline, kids wrapping arms and legs around the mast, over the boom, playing hide and seek in the mainsail cover, and partying like moneys in a zoo--hopping, hollering, and having the time of their lives while making strong memories that will last past this decade. We couldn't help smiling to ourselves and thinking how lucky those kids are to have parents who got what a family vacation should be about. Abandonment of routine and plenty of quality time laughing and playing with parents who haven' forgotten they were kids once upon a time.

We awoke the next morning and the cat had moved on and so did we. We cut around the corner and carefully weaved our way into Nonsuch Bay. We chose the southern entrance, which is narrow, but safer than taking the northern entrance. We found the bay to be somewhat crowded but again there was a great small beach and awesome scenery to enjoy. Kite surfers dominated the beach area and found great gusts to carry them into the surf and just watching them made us contemplate the possibility that 60+ might not be too old to try out this sport. The stars were bright that night and we enjoyed the calm and quiet anchorage to the fullest. In no hurry to move, we ate a lazy breakfast and looked out to where the wind surfers had set their courses the day before. Passing by us were a number of large sailing vessels with fully set sails and teams of crew working the sheets. The 2012 RORC 600 had started. What gorgeous rigs and vessels they have, and what great winds to start this race! Then we noticed a smaller vessel floundering on the reef. A boat had attempted to leave the bay using the northern entry and was in trouble. Three dinghies went to assist but were unable to pull the vessel free, a rescue boat appeared, and also failed to break it free of the coral. Finally a sport fishing vessel arrived and after much effort pulled it off and towed it to Jolly Harbour. Watching a vessel rocking and swaying on a reef is such a mood killer. We all know it can happen to any of us, we all try to deny that it could be us out there on another day, but in reality we all know it can happen to the best of sailors including ourselves. We decided to stay another day where we were and complete some work. In the afternoon we jumped into the water to sooth our souls and limbs after a hard day of working on boat projects.

The next day found us using the southern path to exit the anchorage, and off we went around Friars Head, Half Moon Bay, Willoughby Bay with its rocky entrance, Mamora Bay and its lovely resort, Indian Creek (took pictures of Eric Clapton's mansion), past English and Falmouth Harbours, and we set the anchor down outside Jolly Harbour. The weather report was still predicting high winds but we found this empty beach just inside the start of the channel and on the left where one could anchor. Everyone else had anchored on the right and we wanted some alone time. About 40 minutes later we had six other boats with us. You know that lemming effect--we were the first lemming. A short dinghy ride delivered us to Jolly Harbour, a great grocery store, a pharmacy to replenish our stock of sea sick pills called Sturgeron, and a Budget Marine for parts to complete other boat projects yet to be tackled. What a slice of waterfront paradise that port is for boaters who want to anchor their boat off their front porch. We had a roll and rock night (the kind where pill bottle roll off the counter and wine bottles rock over) and the next morning awoke to breakers breaking about 150 yards ahead of us, a flat calm sea it was not! Carefully we lifted the anchor, gunned the boat into reverse, and made our way back to Falmouth and calmer rolling waters.

Now back to where we started our circumnavigating in Falmouth Harbour, we started to say our "goodbyes" and set plans for our next passage. Our goodbyes are typically last meals and weather checks. A quick trip to Mad Mongoose for great hamburgers and internet, a trip to the ATM, and another internet stop down at Seabreeze on the Antigua Yacht Club end of town. While doing the weather check we started a conversation with a Canadian couple who was headed off the next day on the sailing vessel Tenacious. It is equipped for wheel chair passengers to take part in sailing tasks and learn to love the sea. There appears to be four crow's nests, with lifts, so that they can even take that duty to heart. The girlfriend was looking forward to swabbing the deck, and Russell was just plain psyched to be on the seas. He has traveled many wheel miles around the world but never been put to sea. Another sailor joined in by sharing his favorite weather sites and told us about a pod of whales he encountered off Dominica. Then he pulled up the video he took. It showed the whale about 5 feet from him and that's when he made the wise decision to leave the water to the massive beast. Sperm whales do not mind a bite of meat in their diet.

We were now prepared to sail to St Bart's and buddy boat with Lena and Per from Windfall (another Swedish couple who are heading to Florida). However, they needed to go to St John's and pick up mail. So we all hopped a local bus to St John's. We always try to take at least one local bus trip and get some road time seeing the island from land, speaking with the working class locals, and walking the back street to find the hole in the wall local food eateries (who prepare grandma's favorite recipes with grandma size portions). We asked in the vegetable market for a recommendation and we were told, "Walk up to the big tree, and behind that tree is BB's, you'll eat very good local food, and tell her Glenda sent you." So we walked and found the tree, and it was where two roads met. We didn't see BB's so we asked around and found it. Glenda was right, great goat curry served with salad, scalloped potatoes, rice and beans, and more food than we could eat for 15 EC= $5.00. Now that we were full of great food we went shopping for our fresh foods and then caught a bus. Buying some greens and fruit is always a thrill as we learn about new to us vegetables and fruits. Soursops are in season and a woman on the bus told me how to pick out the best one--make sure they are soft to the touch, very pointy and prickly, not rounded and flatten out. Riding the bus back to Falmouth, I sat with a young girl who was about to start her final school exams. She will need to work for about two years before she can go on to college. There she plans to study politics and become a politician. You find most people have goals and a work ethic who ride the buses, and know it takes hard work to get where they want to be in the future. I hope her plans come true, that she finds her way to the university, and works her way into the hearts of the voters to make things better for her island.

Antigua is a beautiful island with so many easy-to-anchor harbors, friendly people, convenient services and parts for boaters, affordable restaurants, warm water, a large number of snorkeling locales, and all this is doable in a week or less--but two weeks is better. Our only regret is that with the rolling seas and high winds the clarity of the water was less than 6-10 feet so we didn't get to experience the visual gifts of the underwater reefs and see the water life up close and personal.

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Left Martinique

Feb. 13, 2012
With daylight rising and clouds crossing the tip of Mt Pelee, we pulled up the anchor and left the exciting island of Martinique behind us. This has become one of our favorite spots. Clear warm water, sand beaches, good snorkeling, fun cruising friends, great food, unlimited amount of imported quality (yet cheap) French red wine, cheese, salami,rum, and baguettes are some of the reasons we were content to stay here. Other reasons were the shear beauty of nature, mountainous terrain mixed with lush tropical foliage, a green flash at sunset (not once but 6 times), the ambiance of the French culture, great bus system, and the warmth of the sun with cool night breezes kept us comfortable. It truly felt like we were on vacation the whole time.
We had stopped here last year but only to fix our radio. We arrived and left with no great insight into the gifts this island had to offer. This year when we arrived I realized it might be a great place to celebrate turning 61, and it was. We arrived on a stormy day and sat out the first two days of rain downpours before digging out our foulies. On day 3 with rain jackets and umbrellas under our arms, we went in search of red wine and cheese.
The selections were so numerous we were overwhelmed and unsure how to narrow down our choices. So we took a practical approach. Buy no bottle over 4 Euros, and have a wine tasting party on our boat. We invited 4 couples to bring a bottle and we sampled 7 different wines. What a great fun night that was for all of us! Celebration, Unicorn, Panchita, and Jammin swapped bottles, stories, recipes, and advice while testing the French waters of wines. The next day we went to the stores and bought numerous bottles of our favorites from the night before. Then we tested the cheeses. I found a camembert that was sweet, and Dave found one that had a hint of blue cheese notes it it. My favorite Boursin, a creamy garlic and herb cheese, was my first purchase with a baguette. Dave bought chocolate filled rolls and 6 bottles of red wine.
When the weather improved we went for hikes and shopped. Part of the fun was trying to recall my 40+ year old lessons in the French language--its amazing what the brain can retrieve out of those dusty archives. It also helped that we have 3 French handbooks and two dictionaries. When something looked good in the meat market we looked it up, one day we avoided buying 5 pounds of cow lung that was going for a great price! We hopped buses and went to a shopping center, a great way to see the road system and town out of walking distance...and to find another grocery store for more cheese, wine and pastries.
One day we were invited to walk around the Botanical Garden. The brochure for the garden showed flat walk ways and a Tom Sawyer style catwalk over the tree tops. So we hopped on a bus with our two friends, from Unicorn, and our water bottle filled. When we got to the garden entranced we walked pass it and followed a hiking path that took us up on a ridge and around the garden. Three hours later we completed the hiking loop, washed the mud off our feet, and ate our lunch. The pictures we took were beautiful(when we get internet we will post them). This hike was a great test of how in/out of shape our leg muscles are.
Amazingly we could still walk and shop the next day. The shoe shops here are amazingly plentiful, cheap, and so stylish. There were at least 2-3 shoe stores on every block. I found a pair of shoes and a dress, total cost 28 Euros.
We also found time for work. We finished off many sewing projects, repaired the water maker, and accomplished other boat projects in calm and sunny conditions. And of course we read 12 more books. We left 5 years ago with 300 books and it is our goal to finish all of them before next year.
This morning we are off for a sail by to Dominica, Guadeloupe, The Saintes, and Monserrat and sometime on Tuesday we will arrive at Antigua where English is spoken, and new bays await our discovery.

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